The rules were well supported on-line with downloads etc. and ultimately an additional book came out with more ship stats and updated rules. This was (thankfully) a perfect bound paperback.
The game was simple and fun and from what I remember, it split the naval wargaming fraternity, as to those who liked it and those who hated its ultra-simplicity.
1. Having glued the two halves together, I applied acrylic artist paste to the base to give it a "wave" texture |
2. Once dry, the whole model was given a spray coat of matt grey primer (from Poundland!) |
3. The decking area was picked out in Vallejo Orange Brown |
4. The hull sides were painted in Vallejo Dark Grey |
5. The entire model was given a coat of Vallejo Light Grey Wash to darken the shadows and the base painted in Vallejo Pastel Blue |
While there are one or two generic models (not necessarily in 1/1800th scale) on Thingiverse, there are a whole load of suitable models already to scale, available on Wargaming 3D’s website (https://www.wargaming3d.com/)
6. The Grey Blue base colour was given a coat of Army Painter Blue Tone wash. |
USS Indiana battleship model – a South Dakota Class battleship.
I added an oval base before slicing the model along its centre line. I then printed out the two halves laid down on the bed with no supports or brim, so they required no clean-up, just sticking the two halves together.
To give the base some texture I applied acrylic artist’s paste with a pallet knife and left some “wave” like ridges.
Once dry I finished the model in acrylics. The picture captions will explain the process.
Nice scale to use. The model measures up as around 130mm (with its base) long, with ample detail, easy to paint and looks good on the table. You’ll need to ignore the highly unrealistic scale distances on the table though! I think I could enjoy the relaunched version…..time will tell.
Nice work! I really like your base and the paint job is nice as well.
ReplyDeleteIt looks like you printed it on its side, I'm curious what your experience was printing it that way. I never actually tried to print it that way.
I sliced each model (with it's newly attached base) using MicroSoft's 3D Builder that I believe is built into the newer versions of Windows.
DeleteI basically cut the model down the centre line from end to end and then rotated the two resulting pieces so the cut face was placed down on the bed. I usually print with a brim, but the thought of trimming all this off two part battleships filled me with dread, so I rsiked all and printed without. This proved to be successful.
I printed them on a Creality Ender 5 Pro with the extruder set at 210'c and the heated bed at 60'c using standard white 1.75mm PLA (a budget one from Amazon) and have experienced no issues.
Once finished it's a simple job to superglue the two halves together and then add "water" texture to the base using artists acrylic paste.